We visited Penshurst Place and Gardens in July 2020, during the coronavirus pandemic. The gardens were open, but the house was not, visitor numbers were limited, and social distancing measures were in place. As such, it may not reflect a 'normal' visitor experience, and you may find it different if you visit at a later date. That said, the whole experience was smooth, welcoming, very well managed and felt safe.
Whichever way you approach Penshurst Place from, you know you're in for a treat. Arriving by car through the village is a quaint introduction to Henry VIII's former hunting lodge, a brick archway heralding your arrival. Alternatively, follow the Tudor Trail, a 5-mile bike route from Tonbridge town centre, through countryside and Haysden Country Park, and culminating in a long and steep downhill stretch - check your brakes are working before you set off, and remember that what goes down must go back up, as you consider that second slice of cake in the tea rooms.
The visitor entrance to Penshurst Place and Gardens is largely unmarked, and may be tricky to find if you're unfamiliar with the area. From the car park, which is well signposted, head for the Porcupine Pantry cafe, and the entrance is to your left, through the gift shop.
Once inside, you've two options, and which one you take will depend on who you're visiting with. Head round to the right for the adventure playground, a large outdoor area filled with wooden play equipment, catering to a range of ages and guaranteed to wear the kids out. Alternatively, head left for the gardens and the house itself.
The gardens are a labyrinth of rooms, separated by hedges, walls and photogenic wooden doors. Some are carefully manicured, full of blooming roses and lavender on our July visit, attracting bees and butterflies aplenty. Others are wilder, left to grow as they please to help the wildlife out. The turrets and chimneys of Penshurst Place keep watch over all of them. There's no right or wrong route around the gardens, and it would be very easy to miss something, but there's a certain pleasure to be had in just ambling without purpose.
That said, there are a couple of spots not to miss. The Union Jack garden has been painstakingly planted in the shape of the flag, with red and white roses and purple-blue lavender representing the colours. A raised platform has been provided for better viewing, though the full effect is best seen from the sky, as in this drone photo.
The Italian Garden, laid out in front of the house, is also a must-see. Pleasingly symmetrical sunken rose beds form a carpet on which Penshurst Place sits. Raised, grass walkways along the side give a birds eye view across the gardens and up into the hills beyond, and a route towards the house itself.
Orchards, rose trellises and a lily pond are some of the other features to look out for as you stroll through the grounds. If you got a wiggle on, and didn't stop to take photos, you could probably see most of the gardens in an hour. For a more leisurely visit, allow at least two hours for the gardens alone.
Once you've had your fill of bucolic beauty, head back towards the entrance and indulge in an ice cream from the kiosk or a tea towel from the gift shop before making for the exit.
Things to do near Penshurst Place
Want to make a day of it? Here are some other things to do in the surrounding area.
Penshurst village is just a short stroll from Penshurst Place entrance, and is remarkably quaint - think Tudor buildings, a gorgeous church courtyard and overflowing hanging baskets. It's a tiny village, with a walk from one end to the other taking no longer than five minutes, but it's worth leaving time for lunch or a pint at The Leicester Arms (also a hotel if you need somewhere to rest your head), or tea and cake at the Fir Tree House Tea Rooms.
The cottage in which the tea rooms reside has been around since the 16th century, and there's a gorgeous tea garden out the back if the weather's on your side.
A word of warning - it's not the most pedestrian-friendly village with footpaths lacking in some parts, traffic speeding through, and a busy junction in the middle. It's safe if you keep your wits about you, but keep a tight hold on dogs and children.
Moving away from Penshurst, the quaint just keeps coming at nearby Chiddingstone Village. Unusually, the whole village is a National Trust property, though it's a fully functioning (if small) village, with a Post Office, pub, tea rooms and church.
Chiddingstone Castle (which many locals don't even know about) and the more famous Hever Castle are among the other historic sites a short drive away from Penshurst Place.
Tips for visiting Penshurst Place
Though there's understandably an entrance fee if you wish to visit the house and gardens, plenty of the surrounding estate can be visited for free, with footpaths running through the grounds. If you're up for a climb, there are some excellent views over the Kent countryside - a website such as Footpath Map may be useful for this. You can also visit the Porcupine Pantry cafe without paying the entrance fee - the white hot chocolate is our regular order.
If possible, avoid driving to Penshurst Place. In high season, the car park gets very full, and the drive is a single track with passing places, making for a congested entrance and exit. The village too can get very congested with traffic at busy times.
Penshurst Place and Gardens, Penshurst, Tonbridge, Kent, TN11 8DG.
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